Mandore,
9 km to the north of Jodhpur, was the capital of Marwar before the foundation
of Jodhpur. It was founded in the 6th century, and passed to the Rathore
Rajputs in 1381 after a marriage alliance between a princess of the original
founders, the Pratiharas, and the Rathode Raja, Rao Chandor. Today the
main attraction here is the far-reaching Mandore gardens with there high
rock terraces. The gardens also contain the chhatries (cenotaphs) of the
Rathode rulers. One of the most imposing is the Cenotaph of Maharja Dhiraj
Ajit Singh, an enormous edifice with carved elephants, amalake (disk-shaped
flourishes with fluted edges), a pillared fore chamber with fine sculpture.
You can climb to the third storey up a peculiar set of staircases. Opposite
is the 17th century Chhatri of Maharaja Dhiraj Jaswant Singh, an enormous
octagonal pavilion with a vast dome and huge pillars. It achieves a remarkable
symmetry, with a gallery supported by pillars and sculptures of Krishna
and the gopies (milkmaids).
At the rear of the complex, to the right is the small government museum. To the left is the Hall of Heros, with 15 figures carved out of a rock wall. The brightly painted figures represent Hindu deities or local Rajput Heroes on horseback. The Shrine of 33 Crore Gods is painted with figures of deities and spirits.